Peggy Sagers: I sometimes see garments in the store and look at the finishing details, but I'm not sure how my machine at home could duplicate those stitches.

Can I benefit from an industrial machine even if I am a hobby seamstress?

How would I know which sewing machine is best for me?

How much room does an industrial machine take?

Today, we will learn about industrial sewing machines and what stitches they offer so we can decide what is best for us.

Join us as we talk industrial sewing machines today on "Fit 2 Stitch."

♪♪ ♪♪ male announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors-- ♪♪ announcer: Plano Sewing Center-- ♪♪ announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles-- ♪♪ announcer: Bennos Buttons-- ♪♪ announcer: Imitation of Life-- ♪♪ announcer: --and Clutch Nails.

♪♪ Peggy: When my son's friend was little, when he got really excited, he'd flap his arms, and I'm just so excited because we've turned this all into a little factory, and we've got just a great group of people here who can help us know everything we need to know.

Eloy is an industrial sewing machine mechanic.

Selene is in sales.

Sam is the owner.

We've got generations here that can really teach us everything we need to know.

I'm gonna ask the questions, okay?

So how did you guys first get into this?

Sam Abdo: So, my grandpa, back in the early '60s, started his own industrial sewing machine repair shop and sale shop.

Peggy: And where was that?

Sam: It was in Beirut, Lebanon.

Peggy: Okay, fascinating, because now we've gone a long ways away.

And your dad came here?

Sam: Yes, so he moved here in the mid-'80s.

Peggy: Into Dallas.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: And set up the exact same business-- Sam: Yup.

Peggy: --but had all that experience of your grandfather.

He brought it all here.

Because I--I've noticed that a lot of people in Dallas and beyond come here to buy these machines.

You have a very good reputation and a very good name.

Sam: We do, yes.

Peggy: And that's because of your family.

That's just really exciting.

And in sales, you're the one who sees all the numbers, and you know the numbers, so we're gonna rely on you for numbers if that's okay.

Selene Gaitan: [chuckles] Peggy: And you're the one who keeps 'em--you keep them in line, don't ya?

Hah.

So I first went out and bought these clothes, and I came to you, and I said, "Okay, like, what do I do?

What is this stitch?"

Because there's a lot of stitches I see, and I don't know what it is.

So, like, this one right here, how do I do that?

Sam: So that's gonna be what they call a "coverstitch," and so that's gonna be either for hemming or for facing.

Peggy: Okay.

Sam: It's mainly gonna be used for stretchy materials or to, kind of, clean up the edge of your material.

Peggy: Okay, so is it going to have two?

There's two stitches on top.

Is that how you know?

Sam: Yes, so you can either have two stitches on top with 3-threads, or you can actually add a needle in the middle to make it the same on both sides.

Peggy: Call that a "safety stitch" or somethin', don't they?

Sam: Give or take, yes.

Peggy: Sometimes?

Okay, and is that the same one?

And you're gonna demo how to do that.

Is that the same one that's on here?

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: Show us that.

Do you mind?

Sam: A little hard to see, but this is on the same on top, and-- Peggy: Same on the top, then in the bottom?

Sam: Yes, you'll see it here, and then, if I turn it on the other side, the same, and that's just changing a needle on one looper, so going from 5-thread to 3-thread.

Peggy: So what have you got?

Two layers here?

Eloy Nunez: Right now, we do two layers, and we sew in 5-thread.

Peggy: Okay, and there's no--it's not cutting anything away?

Eloy: No.

[machine whirring] So, when I use the 5-thread, so you can keep going 'cause you can cut--and now let me show you.

Peggy: That is so cool.

Eloy: This one is in the bottom.

This one's in the top.

Peggy: What would a machine like this cost?

I know--not exactly, but I know you're in sales, so you gotta know this number.

Selene: It depends.

There's different Browns out there.

They can be anywhere from 1,400 to 2,400.

Peggy: Well, so, when I hear that price, it's amazingly inexpensive, to me, because I would expect an industrial-- 'cause it's all metal?

Is that correct?

Sam: Yes.

Selene: Yes.

Peggy: It's all metal.

I just can't believe it's that inexpensive because--and you don't--this 5-thread can be what else?

Eloy: So, you can use in 3 too.

Peggy: The 5-thread can become a 3-thread?

Eloy: Yes, into a 3-thread, yes.

Peggy: And when it becomes a 3-thread, what does it do?

Eloy: This one, they use for hemming for, especially, for this one.

For hemming, it's two on the top.

It's--it cover here in the bottom, so right now we take one thread, and you can see the difference.

So you-- Sam: Yeah, you normally see them on the bottoms of shirts and the sleeves.

Peggy: Ohhh.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: And it doesn't have to have any different thread.

It's just that there's two on top and one on the bottom, so that allows the stretch?

Sam: Yes.

Eloy: Okay, so we do here.

Peggy: I would use that on the hem of yoga pants or anything like that, any knitwear.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: You just changed it by taking one thread away?

Eloy: Yeah, we take--but right now, we go like this... And now you can just see here like-- Peggy: Oh, look at that.

It's this.

Eloy: Yes, exactly.

Peggy: Do you find these machines hard to adjust, tension-wise?

Eloy: Actually, they use the same thing tensions.

Peggy: All the time?

Eloy: Yes, all the time, yeah.

Peggy: The fabric is not gonna matter?

Eloy: No, it's not too--because, I mean, it all depend how you want really tight or, you know, and especially these fabrics, you don't have to put too much pressure-- Peggy: Got it.

Eloy: -- because this always stretch.

Peggy: Got it.

Sam: And the thing with these machines too, they may seem difficult 'cause they're bigger, but they're actually really similar to, like, a domestic machine, like, threading-wise and sewing-wise.

They're just on a larger scale, more robust.

Peggy: Sure, but they're more stable, it seems like-- Sam: Mm-hmm.

Peggy: --because, I think, partly because of the metal.

Everything's metal, whereas the plastic, just, almost vibrates to where, after a while, you have to fix the tension because it's vibrated.

How many machines would it take, industrial machines, to make this shirt?

Sam: So, you need about three different ones to get you started.

Peggy: Okay, and they are-- Sam: They're gonna be a coverstitch, and we mentioned here a serger--gonna be for the side of the shirts--and a single-needle lockstitch for just the all-around parts of it.

Peggy: So then anytime we're dealing with an industrial machine, you couldn't just get one?

Sam: No.

Selene: No.

Peggy: You'd have--because one--the ones we have at home are more convertible.

These are more fixed?

Sam: Yes, these are meant to do one specific job for a long time.

Peggy: And then do I have to have the table that goes with it?

Sam: Yes, so it will sit on the table.

There's gonna be a motor at the bottom of the table, and it's connected by a belt.

Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: It's just really cool.

And you're the guy who fixes them all.

What goes wrong with these machines?

Eloy: Sometimes when the customer is, like, breaking needles, or sometimes, too, they don't know how to thread it so-- Peggy: It's all the customer's fault.

Eloy: Sometimes, sometimes.

Sam: Personal experience.

Peggy: It's the user.

Eloy: Yes, yes.

Peggy: That's it, that's it.

Eloy: Especially this machine because this one is for production, so it can save a lot of time when I sew on this machine.

So these machines, sometime you can go, like, 4,000 stitch for a minute.

Peggy: Four thousand stitches per minute?

Eloy: Yes, sometimes it's 5,000, sometimes it's--yeah.

Peggy: Whoa, all right, this is my next--this next machine's my favorite.

This is the machine I want.

[laughing] I just don't really wanna tell anybody I want it 'cause that little machine's not cheap.

That has a lot of history, yes?

Sam: Yes, so this is what they call a Merrow Machine, and that's gonna be mostly gonna used for decorate stitching.

It's gonna be mostly on ends of sleeves, bottom of shirts.

They're actually super-common on the bottoms of wedding dresses normally, and so it's-- Peggy: And on my scarf.

Sam: Yes, on your scarf.

Peggy: Except this, I did at home.

Now, this one stretches.

Sam: Yes, it'll stretch.

So if I can get a sample here and stretch it out.

Peggy: And how do you do--how do you get that stretch?

Sam: That's how the machine's made.

That's how Rohans are made.

Peggy: To stretch?

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: So is there a special thread that has to be used on that?

Sam: Mm-mm, it's a stitch pattern.

Peggy: Oh, cool.

And this can just do it?

Eloy: Okay, let us do it.

Sam: Print side up.

[machine whirring] Peggy: So consistent.

Sam: Sounds like brand-new.

Peggy: It does.

Like, how old is this machine, this one in particular?

Tell us about this machine.

Sam: This one's from the late '60s, early '70s.

Peggy: Late '60s, early '70s, and it hasn't skipped a beat.

Sam: Nope.

Peggy: And this is a used machine?

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: And the company?

The history of that company?

Sam: The company--it's called the Merrow Machine Company.

They've been around since, I think, the early '50s, give or take.

And they still make 'em today, but they cost about $4,000.

Selene: You could still buy 'em.

They're a bit different now, but you could still get 'em.

I know Juki has 'em for about 1,800.

They go for about 1,800.

Peggy: Well, I notice, with this one, you've got 2-threads comin' down and where the rolled hem that we have at home actually has 3-threads.

Sam: Yes, that's gonna be a modern rolled-hem hemming machine.

Peggy: So would the newer Merrow Machines have the 3-threads?

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: Oh, they do, okay.

Sam: This is an older type, older model.

Peggy: So, pros and cons?

Does it look different?

Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: The stitch?

Eloy: Okay.

Peggy: We'll compare this next to mine.

Same fabrics, just different machines.

Pretty close, huh?

Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: Pretty close.

Eloy: So, actually, always, sometimes, through the manufacturers or the companies only use 2-thread for its--you can do the same stitching, but they save thread.

Peggy: It does save thread.

Eloy: Yes, because-- Peggy: So it's more economical.

Eloy: Yes, if you're used to--they have dial, small dial you can change, so you can fill it out more if you want to more, like, close it, so you can do so--but it's pretty good machine so-- Peggy: Okay, all right.

Let's go to this one.

This is my favorite.

Selene: [chuckling] Peggy: This is the, like, the baby of them all.

Sam: So this is gonna be our bread and butter, the single-needle lockstitch machine.

Whether you're getting into fashion design or just getting your first industrial machine, it's super-affordable.

It's super-straightforward, and 90% of your sewing is gonna be made on--with that machine.

Peggy: "Super-affordable."

How affordable?

Selene: Yes-- Peggy: You're my "money girl."

Selene: --these start at 695.

Peggy: Six hundred and ninety-five dollars?

Selene: Yes, $695.

Peggy: For an industrial sewing machine?

Selene: For a straight stitch.

Peggy: I don't think you can find a home sewing machine for that cheap, can you?

Six hundred ninety-five dollars?

Eloy: So, actually, this one is called lockstitch.

You can adjust to the-- Peggy: Whoa.

[machine whirring] Eloy: Yeah, actually, you could put more speed on this one.

Peggy: So you can control the speed with the buttons?

Eloy: Yes, correct.

This one is--you can go, like, 37--numbers, 3,700 stitches per minute.

Selene: Yeah, this machine actually has a-- it has a direct-drive motor.

Peggy: Per minute--3,700 stitches per minute?

Sam and Eloy: Yes.

Peggy: You better not--get your finger out of there.

Selene: No, not at our shop.

[machine whirring] Peggy: Wow, so this is the baby.

This is the number one.

Sam: Yes, this is our bread and butter.

Peggy: Is it?

Selene: Mm-hmm.

Peggy: Because this is what makes everything, basically, that straight-stitching machine.

Sam: This is the first thing you start off on.

Whenever you're going into a industrial machine, in general, or you just wanna get into fashion design, if you want something a little more robust, this is the first thing you buy.

Peggy: Okay, but it's not--it doesn't break the bank.

Sam and Selene: No.

Peggy: That's, I guess, what's so astounding to me.

So I put some things on here that I shopped for that I don't know how to do that I thought maybe you could help me figure out what that is and how I can do it.

Sam: Yes, so these machines will take certain attachments.

So, like, here, for example, on the machine, there's gonna be a double-fold attachment, and it only installs with two screws, and it literally just swings in, and so it's literally intended to make your piece or your edge or your raw material finished.

So all it does is it actually cleans up your edges.

Makes 'em look a little nicer, a little more uniform, and that's really it, and that can vary on what-- Peggy: And this could be on a knit or a woven?

Sam: Mm-hmm.

Peggy: You can do it on knit or woven?

The fabric doesn't matter?

Sam: Really, on any fabric, like, on any thin fabric that can go through the folder will work with.

Peggy: So what it's doing is it's not just folding the edge over.

It's folding it twice-- Sam: Twice, yeah.

Peggy: --and giving it one stitch.

Sam: Yup.

Peggy: Okay, and this is a perfect example because you've got a fold here where it's coming around and under, but, yet there's only one stitch on the outside, so I know that's been done by that type of machine.

Eloy: But this one come in different sizes, just like come in one-eighth through sixteenth, and quarter.

Peggy: It's just surprising how accurate that attachment is over me trying to do it manually.

Eloy: Oh, yes.

Peggy: And does that attachment cost me $675 more?

Selene: No, these attachments start at $14 up to $28.

Peggy: Fourteen dollars?

Selene: Yes, and we also have different presser feet.

We have zipper feet for 'em, invisible zipper feet, topstitch, and these are all, like, $5 apiece, $6.

Peggy: So you're just rolling that in there.

Eloy: Yeah, right now we-- [machine whirring] Peggy: It look so good.

He makes it look so easy.

Eloy, do you sew at all besides swatches?

Eloy: You know, sometimes I have to because I have to teach it to the customers, sometimes to the new customers that never touchin' the sewing machine, so I have to free class-- Peggy: You're the training department.

Eloy: The training, yes, so anytime, "Hey, Eloy."

Come to show you how to thread it.

I had the bobbin winder and, I mean, so I have to, but I like it.

I enjoy.

Enjoy.

Really enjoy with it.

Peggy: That's great.

And I noticed, as I was shopping, a lot of things are finished off like this.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: I mean, you're talkin' armholes, hems, necklines.

So even to have this machine and that attachment would go an awfully long way.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: But as far as the inside of something, you'd have to have this next machine, actually.

Sam: Mm-hmm.

Peggy: I think this next machine-- Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: You're so good, Eloy.

Peggy: This next machine, I think, what it's doing-- Sam: So this machine is specifically a 4-thread serger, and what that does is it will assemble either your sleeves or your sides of your material.

Sample is right here.

So it will cut and sew at the same time.

This one specifically is gonna be made for stretchy materials such as, like, swimsuits or yoga pants or-- Peggy: Sportswear in general.

Eloy: Yeah.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: Mm-hmm, so this is really your assembler.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: It does your straight seams.

It does a lot.

This is really not meant for that.

This is really meant for finishing.

Sam: Some construction, some finishing, yes.

Peggy: Okay, and this one is a 4-thread, but it's only a 4-thread?

Eloy: Actually, you can use in 3-thread and 4-thread.

They have two difference: If you use, like, one needle, they come more narrow, so you can use in, especially, in the alteration shops, or sometimes you need to--this one can go more narrow or more wider.

But this one can use, like, 3- or 4-thread.

Peggy: Do that again, Eloy.

Do you mind?

Eloy: Okay.

Peggy: Just run that through.

Eloy: Yes, I can do, yeah.

Peggy: And, now, what you've got right now is a 4-thread.

Eloy: Four-thread, yeah.

[machine whirring] Peggy: And that stitch in itself will give stretch?

It's good for knits, wovens; it's good for everything?

Eloy: Yes, correct.

That's why they put the stitch in the middle because this one is sometimes, when you pull, it's not breaking.

Easy, you see?

Peggy: Got it.

Can we talk brands for just a minute?

'Cause I notice this is a Juki.

Sam: Yeah, it's the most common, well-known machine that's available.

Anybody who walks in, says, "I'm looking for a Juki."

Peggy: They do?

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: They're brand-specific?

Sam: Yeah, they've been around forever.

Peggy: Do you put 'em in what they want, or do you kind of tell 'em advantages and disadvantages?

Sam: We give 'em options, yes, but we don't want to push anybody towards the wrong machine-- Peggy: Sure.

Sam: --whatever they're comfortable with.

Peggy: So, I know Juki is sometimes what is well known, but there's other really good machine--kind of like Merrow.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: The Merrow started that whole thing, but you don't have to spend that much.

Merrows are like brand-name clothing?

Is that a fair comparison?

They cost more because-- Sam: They're more well known.

Peggy: --of the brand.

Sam: Yes.

Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: But the other machines can do the same quality?

Eloy: Every time when the customer come with the shop--always tell, "Okay, we have so many options and the same quality.

I don't know how much you wanna spend or if you wanna spend, like, only for the brand or only for the production," you know?

And the machines today, any machine, if you know how to using it, it's working pretty good machine, yeah.

Peggy: So let's go back to the fact that all of these machines come with tables, and why is that?

I mean, I guess, couldn't you just put 'em all on one table and save space?

Selene: [laughing] Peggy: Selene's going, "No, no, no, no."

Sam: Reason being is you want some work space with your tables, and then, also, if you were to put all of them on one table, it'd be really hard to move around because each one weighs about 100 pounds, to 400, depending on what you're getting.

Peggy: I guess that's what surprises me is the quality is through and through on these machines.

The consistency is through and through on these machines, and, yet the prices don't seem reflective of that quality.

It seems that they're so affordable for the quality that's offered, and that's what's stunning, to me.

Sam: Yeah, because they're very, very straightforward.

There's no gimmicks.

It just does the job, and it's all you need to do with it.

Peggy: Mm, are home sewers more--are you seeing more home sewers come in to buy these machines?

Selene: Yes, we do see--we do have home sewers every day who come in, and they wanna upgrade from their home machine to an industrial, and their first option is always-- they always go towards the single-needle.

Peggy: Sure, because that's kind of the workhorse.

Selene: Mm-hmm.

Peggy: But then they gravitate probably to other machines, don't they?

Selene: Yes, this will be the second choice they always go after.

Peggy: I don't remember what this-- Selene: This specific Juki 4-thread serger is 1,495, and it's complete and fully assembled.

Peggy: So, when they come in, the home sewers, do they ask you--do they need education, or do they just pretty much know what they want?

What are they making?

Is it apparel?

Is it home decor?

Sam: It's a mixture from apparel, handbags; sometimes, on a rare occasion, shoes, but mostly apparel and handbags.

Peggy: Can this machine do everything, handbags, as well as silk, as well as-- Sam: For the most part, yeah.

It can do as little as, like, silk, up to maybe a few layers of denim and some light leather.

Peggy: So that punch factor is very high.

Sam: Yes, it'll also vary in the needle set and how you may--how you set everything up.

Sometimes they have things that a home machine will not work out for them, so they want something that's a little bit more robust, a little bit more consistent, and they might wanna maybe upgrade or, like, get something thicker, like, sew with thicker material in the future, so they want a machine that can actually handle that too, as well.

Peggy: All right, so do you do a lot of repair on these machines?

I know you mentioned earlier it was really just consumer use.

Eloy: And for industrial or for home machines?

Peggy: For industrial.

Eloy: For industrial, we have so many customers.

They bring--try to bring machine, for home machines, so with repair for homes, it's like almost hundred dollars for repair.

This one, it's 65, so it's more cheaper.

Selene: And sometimes, you can't get the parts for the home machines where it makes it more expensive if they have to buy a new machine.

Peggy: So this is actually cheaper to repair these.

Eloy: Yes, if you put in the side and the timing, yes, it's more cheaper with industrial sewing machines.

Peggy: Eloy, how many years you've been doin' this?

Eloy: Actually, when my father-in-law, he introduced me in this business, only I come to work for one day, and now "one day" is like "ten years."

Peggy: Just goes, just like that, doesn't it?

Eloy: Yes.

Peggy: Talk to me about the lifespan.

How could--if I bought that machine, how long would I expect it to last?

Sam: Minimum, like, 15 years, give or take, if you use it hard.

Peggy: This is just so astonishing to me, you know?

Eloy: Oh, yeah.

Peggy: Because I've gone through so many machines in my life where I just feel like I could've bought one machine, and it would've lasted me a lot longer.

Why don't--I guess, it's kind of surprising, to me, that we don't know more about these commercial machines.

You guys offer this great service, and, yet your service is cheaper, everything's cheaper, you know, and, yet we're sewing on these expensive machines, but they are--we would have to have more than one, somewhat, although we do have a sewing machine at home, and we have a serger.

We just have one that can do this job and that job--two jobs.

But when it comes to a 5-thread, we actually have to go buy another machine anyway.

Sam: Yes.

Peggy: They just take up more space, so I need to clear everybody out of my house so I can just fill it full with the sewing machines that I want.

Eloy: Yeah, you know, it's the industrial sewing machine is more for if you wanna, like, start your business.

So if you think to--you wanna start, like, your own fabric and if you grow, so you have to put the industrial sewing machines, so you make a space because, I mean, it's work for production, yes, and, I mean, home machine is only for hobby, you know?

Peggy: If I were to just get one of these and it lasts me that length of time, do I have to just bring it in for maintenance?

Is the maintenance fairly low on it?

Or just wait till something goes wrong and not worry about it?

Sam: That's usually the case.

Selene: Typically, what we recommend is for you to service them.

I mean, if you're only using it at home, you're not using it like-- Peggy: It could go every five years, I mean, compared to the commercial industry.

Eloy: Yeah.

Peggy: I guess, I'm just so used to this home machine and the limits that it has.

This feels like such freedom.

Eloy: Yeah, you know, we have customers, they have, like, 30 years with the machine--never bring it with the shop.

Peggy: Eloy, Sam, Selene, I so appreciate your information.

You're just--it's just really great to learn all this.

For those who choose to marry, wedding costs are soaring.

One of the most expensive items for a typical ceremony is the wedding dress and the alterations to that dress.

Next time on "Fit 2 Stitch," we'll learn some of the details of wedding dresses and how a bride can minimize costs.

Join us.

♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ announcer: "Fit 2 Stitch" is made possible by Kai Scissors-- ♪♪ announcer: Plano Sewing Center-- ♪♪ announcer: Elliott Berman Textiles-- ♪♪ announcer: Bennos Buttons-- ♪♪ announcer: Imitation of Life-- ♪♪ announcer: --and Clutch Nails.

♪♪ announcer: To order a four-DVD set of "Fit 2 Stitch," Series 11, please visit our website at fit2stitch.com.