
Restaurateur Billy Dec’s Filipino “Food Roots:” New PBS documentary and Detroit restaurant
Clip: Season 10 Episode 45 | 8m 2sVideo has Closed Captions
A preview of “Food Roots” followed by a conversation with restaurateur Billy Dec.
A new PBS documentary, “Food Roots,” follows restaurateur Billy Dec as he travels to the Philippines to explore his family’s traditional recipes and reconnect with his Filipino heritage. One Detroit’s Chris Jordan spoke with Dec about the documentary, the importance of food in Filipino culture and his new downtown Detroit restaurant.
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One Detroit is a local public television program presented by Detroit PBS

Restaurateur Billy Dec’s Filipino “Food Roots:” New PBS documentary and Detroit restaurant
Clip: Season 10 Episode 45 | 8m 2sVideo has Closed Captions
A new PBS documentary, “Food Roots,” follows restaurateur Billy Dec as he travels to the Philippines to explore his family’s traditional recipes and reconnect with his Filipino heritage. One Detroit’s Chris Jordan spoke with Dec about the documentary, the importance of food in Filipino culture and his new downtown Detroit restaurant.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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- Billy Dec.
- We love you.
- We love you.
- You don't know where you're going unless you know where you're from.
I booked a flight to the Philippines.
This is sort of going back in time.
You said this is a secret recipe?
- [Elder] Hmm-mm.
- [Billy] Where are the family recipes?
Amazing herbs, plants, fruit.
But I always felt guilty that I never learned these things, especially being a restaurateur who serves Filipino food.
(upbeat dramatic music) - Tell me about the documentary, about "Food Roots."
- Yeah, you know, it started just completely organic in a really unique way.
I always loved the food that my lola, who's grandma in the Philippines, raised us on.
But, you know, as we grew up going back and forth to the Philippines or just growing up in a household with Filipino food cooked 24/7 and Tagalog spoken, I began to push away from it.
When I was in middle school, high school, there was a lot of bullying and other things, pressures to make you fit in.
Today, it's a little different, which I love.
But back then, it was a little tough.
And as I kind of, you know, grew up and tried to make it in the world where everyone says, you know, go to college, go to law school, or go to go to Harvard, get on TV, or act, or work for the White House like I was, I did all that.
I was trying to do all those things, but I still wasn't happy.
And in my mind, I just knew that I always wanted to go back to the Philippines to learn those recipes that I wasn't ever there for.
You had to be present.
They're not written down, they're story.
And so, one day, two of my last three elders died on the same day, and I dropped everything 'cause I only, I knew there was one last remaining elder of that generation, and I just went to go search that out.
And I actually asked these shooters and editors, could they come with me so that I wasn't writing things down, I wasn't consumed with documenting.
I just wanted to be present and they could capture it.
And who but a Detroit native, Doug Blush, who's a three-time Oscar-winning executive producer and editor, saw the footage, and he was like, "We can make something really wonderful about this."
Especially with this new director who's an Emmy-winning Filipino director named Michele Josue, that had done Matthew Shepherd's "A Friend of Mine," and "Happy Jail "and some other really wonderful things.
They were like, "Listen, there's something going on that you're not talking about as we look at this footage, there's something you're skating around."
And it was just that they had saw some things I'd been wrestling with from, you know, family and emotion and darkness and you know, things lost.
And they said, they started talking to me and my chef and my sister, you know, my family, and captured all of this story that starts with food, but then it dives down to your roots, your culture, your heritage, your story, your lineage, your identity.
They're just a master storytellers and they knew how to take what was really there and create something meaningful for all.
And then we went on the film fest kind of tour because we wanted to get it to communities.
We didn't wanna just put it out there and then it would be over because we felt like there was discussion that needed to happen, especially with respect to identity, mental illness, other challenges.
People were laughing and crying and course hungry afterwards.
But, like, it was a human story.
It was a story that maybe people needed to see and hear and feel.
- Your newest restaurant is the Detroit location of Sunda, which has just recently opened.
Why did you end up picking Detroit as the new location for Sunda?
- The foundation really is that so many Michigan folks have been in Chicago for good portions of their lives.
And then so many went back to Detroit or the suburbs of Detroit especially.
And they were constantly hitting me up to tell me I needed to come to Detroit.
And again, I just always wanted to go to cities where I felt it was on the up and up.
Like, we get offers to go to New York, LA, Miami, Vegas, but there are other offerings there.
And we watched the data points of what we thought was gonna pop and Detroit was off the chart.
It was like, you know, all of the signs were there, the city was like us against everybody.
Everyone's supporting.
Everyone's so supportive.
I've lived there for like months building and getting it ready and training and I've just fallen in love with the city.
People couldn't be kinder.
And I love taking them on these explorations throughout Southeast Asia I grew up on, back and forth to the Philippines my entire life to visit family.
And you always stop in China and Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Singapore, Laos, Cambodia, you name it.
And it's just cool to take them on that journey through the menu.
- How would you describe Filipino food and what makes it so unique as a cuisine?
- The most amazing, distinctive characteristic of Filipino food is that it's always evolving.
There's 7,641 islands in the Philippines.
And that has been, you know, influenced by so many different cultures and countries, whether, you know, it's Spain, or China, or Mexico, Japan, India, Malaysia, the US, Africa, you name it.
I think the Kamayan feast is like one of the best examples of a Filipino food experience because you're literally getting on a banana leaf-lined table.
Sometimes we do 'em on these tables behind me, the 40 foot table of banana leaf, and then all the procession, the chefs come out with all the, you know, dozen or so pieces that create this gigantic island feast.
But we also do it on a nice butcher block at your table customized with this big, of course, the foundation of the culture and the genre of food is the rice.
And then we put the crispy pot there, confit pork shank, my favorite right in the middle.
And then street food is really popular throughout Southeast Asia, especially in the Philippines.
And then, so you'll have like skewers of garlic, shrimp, and, you know, chicken inasal, and all of these, which is a great lemongrass achiote type grilling chicken that is one of my personal favorites.
And then you have longaniza, which is the sausage that you saw in the documentary as well.
And lumpia, this Chinese inspired lumpia Shanghai, which is this Chinese inspired Filipino egg roll with pork, shrimp, you know, vegetables, all the things that my lola used to make for us as afterschool snacks.
And it's just a feast.
And the story, again, it's all about story, was that when the Spanish, you know, occupied and colonized the Philippines for 400 plus years, one of the things that they did was they instituted that it was mandatory to use silverware.
And that was tough because the culture ate with their hands, like most of our ancestors did at some point.
And the Kamayan meal to this day is really special because you're usually having it with your friends and family.
Kamay means hand and we're eating with our hands, this Kamayan meal.
And it means from the stories that we're told that when the day ended and the doors closed, we could go back to the ways in which our ancestors ate on the banana leaf with our hands.
And so, very often in Detroit, I did this, the first day of training, 100 people from all different backgrounds throughout Michigan came together to be part of this concept called Sunda.
And what do we do?
We shut the doors, we close off the outside world and we say we are family now.
This is a trust moment where we're together and we will, once again, like our ancestors, doesn't matter where in the world you are from, be connected through food.
And it's a really special spiritual kind of cool thing that people can now enjoy at Sunda at their table.
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